2017-2020 Honda CRF450R Clutch Fixes

Do you have a 2017-2020 Honda CRF450R? If so, then you know that the clutch is not the best of the bunch. The clutch gets hot too quick then proceeds to drag/slip during your moto and you’re left with throttle to rear wheel connection loss (aka loss of power/traction). Or how about that clutch lever pull? How hard is this thing?! Not the lightest clutch lever pull in the game is it? I have a couple solutions that I came across while spending a lot of time on the Honda CRF450R this year that I thought was worth mentioning.


Fix #1 XPR Motorsports Longer Clutch Arm:

Chad at XPR Motorsports has hand made his own special longer clutch arm that helps the engagement as well as the lever pull. When I was riding for Smartop/Bullfrog Spas/MotoConcepts Honda this year Chad asked me if I had a problem with the engagement/lever pull and I immediately said “yes, I do”. With Chad’s longer clutch arm the engagement point immediately became wider, which left me with a more linear feel when slipping the clutch out of corners or when performing starts. The longer/wider engagement gave me increased rear wheel traction and smoothed out the on/off feel of the stock clutch engagement. When feeding the clutch lever out I noticed that the Honda CRF450R wasn’t as jumpy or surged when rolling my corners. The next improvement was lever feel. With XPR’s longer clutch arm the clutch lever pull is twice as easy to pull in and actually lets me use one finger on the clutch. The stock pull on the CRF450R is atrocious and makes putting in longer motos hard on my left hand/arm. This longer clutch arm makes the lever pull easier as well as smoother.


Fix #2 Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack: Rekluse offers a clutch pack (fibers, steels, springs) that replaces your OEM clutch plates and adds additional discs to your existing OEM clutch basket. It’s as easy as swapping your clutch plates into your OEM components. The TorqDrive thin friction disk technology allows more disks to fit in your OEM clutch’s footprint, decreasing slip and unlocking the full power of that Honda CRF450R engine. Once I installed the Rekluse system the clutch life of the CRF450R went up as well as rear wheel control on hard pack surfaces. The combination of the XPR clutch arm as well as this Rekluse clutch pack allows the Honda hook up better and gives me added control where the Honda needed it most, accelerating out of rough/choppy corners.

These two modifications are simple and really improved the way the Honda behaves on the track. Honda is one of my favorite bikes to ride, but it can wear me out too quick when in stock form. These two mods don’t sound like much, but helps the control factor huge for me. Hopefully it can for you as well.

You can get the clutch arm by calling Chad at XPR Motorsports at 951-813-8873.

The Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack is available over on

Dunlop MX53 Tire Review

Dunlop recently introduced their new MX53 intermediate to hard terrain tires last week to the media at Perris Raceway. I was excited about the new tire from Dunlop because quite frankly there hasn't been an intermediate to hard terrain tire that I have been over the moon about in a very long time. I usually am stuck with running a soft to intermediate tire at most tracks, but that always isn't the best decision once second motos roll around. I have been able to ride with the new Dunlop MX53 tires at more than five different tracks, with several types of soil, over the span of seven days. I have put almost 10 engine hours on the tires as well as experimented with air pressure settings. Here is what I know about the new Dunlop MX53 tires.


Tread Pattern (From Dunlop):

Front Tire: Dunlop has introduced a horseshoe shaped cluster of knobs to the front tire of the MX53. This horseshoe pattern acts as a giant claw to dig into the ground in order to try and give the rider more traction on hard-packed terrain as well as maximize braking grip. This bold new pattern features hollowed out portions of the center of the tread. The hollow area of this horseshoe cluster results in less stiffness in the center of the tire, in order to give riders better feedback and more compliance. The MX53 also has a taller profile than the previous MX52, providing gentler handling, a higher lean angle and better maneuverability. Additionally, each of the blocks are 1 mm higher than the MX52. This extra height is crucial in allowing the MX53 to perform better in intermediate terrains than the MX52 ever did.


Rear Tire: The rear tire enhancements include a reemergence of Dunlop’s Tornado Wave block distribution. The staggered placement of the rear tire blocks provide a more linear land ratio for a better ride compliance. The consistent placement of knobs along the shoulder of the tire increases confidence at greater lean angles. However, the interior blocks have more separation, which allows loose soil from softer terrains to clear the spaces more easily, while also exposing more surface area of the knobs to the dirt when more traction is needed for harder surfaces 

Progressive Cornering Block Technology:

Dunlop’s patented Progressive Cornering Block Technology has become an industry standard. A smaller block within the traditional knob, commonly known as Block-In-A-Block, has been incorporated into Dunlop’s rear off-road tires for many generations of tire patterns. Dunlop continues to raise the bar by evolving this traditional block into altered shapes to increase durability and tire performance. 

Block-In-A-Block: The new Geomax MX53 now also features Dunlop’s patented Block-In-A-Block technology on the front tire, which allows enhanced flex on each knob resulting in ultimate grip and even more biting edges. The tie bars connecting the base of the knobs add heightened durability to enhance performance in harder terrains. The individual flex of each knob improves linear tracking and aids in steering, as the block can now flex around various terrain elements. 

The Block-In-A-Block technology in the rear tire incorporates the Diamond Block design that was introduced with great success on the MX33. The diamond shape of this altered knob increases the surface area of the block, enhancing stability and slide control. Two additional angles increase the number of biting edges to dig into the dirt. The updated Block-In-A-Block shape has also been added to the rear tire along the shoulder. This wider knob provides a steady base to maximize traction along the outer edge of the tire’s surface.The compound for the MX53 tires has a higher number of molecular polymer particles. This results in a higher fracture strength, meaning more durability. Dunlop has also added more fine carbon particles. The carbon par-ticles are responsible for grip.

Construction: In the construction process of the MX53, Dunlop has added Advanced Apex Design technology. This component of the tire’s construction is present in both the front and rear tire. The Apex of the tire previously consisted of a small strip of material wrapped around the apex of the bead. By extending this apex further into the tire’s natural construction, Dunlop is able to increase ride compliance by spreading the forces of weight on the tire across the breadth of the profile. Distributing the force in this manner increases bump absorption and allows more flex and better ride compliance. Incorporating this element strikes a perfect balance between a plush ride and a firm feel. 


On The Track: I managed to ride five different types of tracks and I will be completely honest here; I came away with a more positive outlook on these tires than after the first day of testing, at Perris Raceway. As you may or may not know I am a front end steering type of rider and I am not a fan of the Dunlop MX33 or MX52 front tires at alI. I am a picky SOB when it comes to front tires!! I was forced to purchase any remaining MX3S front tires that were available and mix matched my way around Southern California with different front to back tread patterns. 

The Dunlop MX53 front tire impressed me on the first day of testing, but it wasn't until after day two (at Glen Helen) that I realized that I could actually like an intermediate to hard terrain front tire better than a soft terrain front. The MX53 front tire lean angle traction inspires confidence in terrain that is anywhere between soft-hard pack. In pure sand conditions the front end is a little loose feeling on entrance of corners, but if the track is still fresh in the morning with tilled up loam, the front tire tracks very well. I can predict where the side of the MX53 will break loose, how much I am able to lean through corners, and that feeling never waivers throughout the course of any day. Unlike the other MX33/52 compounds where they washed unexpectedly on initial lean, the MX53 bites and give the rider predictability. Another positive aspect to the MX53 is lack of front tire sliding when braking. Grabbing a handful of front brake (lean angle or straight line) into a corner leaves the rider with a sensation of a more contact patch feel that is wider than any other Dunlop I have tried to date (especially on lean angle braking).

Flat corners (while on throttle) or medium lean angle sweepers gives me a more secure/planted feel than a MX33 or MX52 and doesn't leave me with a feel of washing the front end out. As much as I love the MX3S front tire, even that tire isn't as good in this area of the track. The carcass of the front MX53 tire also has enough cushion to where it doesn't make your front end feel harsh on braking bumps like the MX33 can do at times on intermediate/hard pack tracks. For as much time as I have on the front tire the reliability also seems to be better than the MX3S, but I will continue to put more time on the tire to see where its “breaking” point is. The overall integrity/feel of the tire still remains intact with almost 10 hours on it. The only real negative I have found to this tire is the air pressure setting is crucial, so running a 13.5 air pressure setting is the number you will need to achieve. Going higher in air pressure will leave you with less lean angle grip on dry/wet slick surfaces and going lower will leave you with a carcass that is extremely soft feeling on braking bumps. 

dunlop mx53-7244.jpg

I am not as picky when it comes to a rear tire, but the MX53 rear tire has a narrower “terrain window” than the front tire. However, it’s still impressive on intermediate-hard terrain, it just doesn’t have much forward bite or tracking when the track has deep sand sections. If the track is softer in nature the rear tire doesn't bite into the ground as good as the front does, so if you're a rear end steering rider you may want to stick with a MX33 in softer stuff. The MX53 has a comfortable carcass feel on square edge and braking bumps, but just know 13.5 or even 14 psi is recommended. I tried Dunlop’s recommendation of 12.5, but found myself feeling the tire squish too much on the rim on acceleration bumps. When it comes to entering shallow hard pack ruts I have yet to feel anything better than a MX53 in this area of the track. The rear end tracks into the ruts superbly with a positive lean angle and lets you get on the gas earlier because the rear end of the bike feels planted sooner. Another area I gave the MX53 high marks was under braking. When braking into corners there was much less slide with the MX53 than the MX33 and that really helps when you’re asking your motorcycle for traction/bite when diving hard into a corner.

If you're a rear end steering rider, having a rear tire that slides a little more under braking might be better for you, so look into a MX33 if you’re that type of rider. Just like the front tire, being on the gas while under a medium lean angle suits the MX53 rear tire. The contact patch that the rear tire lays down for you is better than any other intermediate to hard pack terrain tire I have tried as well as allows for a more controlled scrub up faces of dry/hard pack jumps. The rear end will not want to wash as quickly up the faces of jump when leaning, which can allow for a lower trajectory. With almost 10 hours on the rear tire, its performance hasn't dwindled a huge amount and is consistent enough for me to continue to put time on it. 

On wet/slick track conditions (think hard pack with water on top) the MX53 front/rear tires fling sticky mud out from in between the knobs well enough for me to be fairly aggressive, but just note that I have yet to find a production tire that works extremely well in that type of condition. Overall, these Dunlop MX53 tires have changed my outlook on running an intermediate to hard terrain tire on a wide variety of tracks. Having a tire that is consistent enough to run in the early morning motos as well as the late afternoon motos is tough to do, but Dunlop has done a good job with providing us a tire that is capable of doing this. 

Forecasting Questions: Before my email inbox blows up with MX53 questions, let me answer some that may come through the pipeline. 

Kris, what do you like better? The MX3S or MX53? As of right now I can stand here and say for California tracks I would like to run the MX53 tires 9 months out of the year. If we get a lot of rain and the tracks are soft I will run a MX3S front and MX33 rear. If you’re an east coaster and ride soft conditions I would run a MX3S front and a MX11 rear. 

Kris, what about durability? Will these knobs chunk off? At the 10 hour mark these MX53 knobs haven't chunked off. The MX3S knobs have chunked on me around this time, but you have to know what type of tire buyer you are. Are you a performance or durability based tire purchaser? It is extremely difficult to get both of these into one tire. For me I would rather take a 10-12 hour tire that has excellent grip than a 20 hour tire that has low grip/high. However, not everyone is like me, so if you’re a weekend warrior and do not care about performance as much, but want more durability, then you might want to look into a cheaper tire manufacturer price bracket. 

Kris, what sizes do the MX53 tires come in? Dunlop offers the MX53 for all size bike ranging from 50cc-450cc including 18 inch sizes for you off-road guys. 

If you have any more questions about the Dunlop MX53 tires or even the MX3S front tire that is making its way back into production, please feel free to email at


FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler With SX Style Megabomb Headpipe (2020 KX450)

The Kawasaki KX450 was the most improved 450 machine of 2019 and with Kawasaki not changing anything on the 2020 KX450, I wanted to test some new aftermarket parts to see if I could improve on what I already knew from last year’s machine. I knew FMF had two headpipes available for the KX450, but until recently I wasn't able to try it. The SX Style headpipe comes down like a “lowboy” headpipe and increases the length in order to shift the power character around. So what exactly did the “SX Style” headpipe do to the KX450 and how is it compared to the MX Style headpipe? First let us tell you about the stock KX450’s power character. 


The stock power curve of the 2020 KX450 engine has a snappy throttle response from 0-10% throttle opening (with a free feel to it) and at times can almost be too touchy through corners with the standard green coupler installed. Once rolling on the throttle and passed the corner, the power is not quite as strong as the Honda or Yamaha, but still creates an easy to ride power feel on the track. I didn't necessarily need more rpm response with the 2019 KX450, but I would be lying if I said I couldn't use more bottom and mid range puling power when coming out of corners. If you go back and read my review of the MX Style FMF Megabomb headpipe with 4.1 muffler from 2019 ( you will read that the MX Style Megabomb smoothed out the low end power delivery more than the stock muffler system did, but had more mid range meat, which was noticeable immediately. In a perfect world, I would love to get more of that newfound mid-range “meat” (that the MX Style and FMF 4.1muffler system brings) and shift some of it towards the bottom end. This is why my curiosity lead me to this FMF “SX Style” headpipe.  


As far as bolting on the complete system, it really is a painless install. The 2020 Kawasaki is the lightest Japanese bike in stock form, but when FMF sent me the full titanium system, I was surprised it dropped the Kawasaki’s weight by 2.4 pounds! Also this is just my opinion, but the titanium FMF 4.1 system is one of the most stunning aftermarket mufflers you can put on any bike. I love the blue anodized finish against the green plastic and it makes the whole bike pop more!

Comparing The FMF SX Style Headpipe To The MX Style FMF Megabomb Headpipe:

So how do the two headpipes with the FMF 4.1 RCT muffler compare to each other on the track? The SX Style headpipe, along with the 4.1 RCT muffler made the KX450 feel more playful out of corners than the MX style megabomb that I tried on the 2019. The low end RPM response (0-10% throttle opening) was slightly less with the SX Style headpipe (without the muffler insert), but now the KX450 had slightly more bottom end pulling power without sacrificing that extra mid-range that I liked so much from the MX Style Megabomb headpipe/4.1 muffler system. You will get slightly less pulling power on top end/length with the SX Style headpipe, but to me it was a minimal loss. Some less sensitive riders may not feel the loss of top end pull with the SX Style headpipe, but it’s something that should be noted. I prefer the SX Style headpipe on most motocross tracks simply because the KX450 pulls harder out of corners and I can shift to third gear sooner with the SX Style headpipe. 

Insert in…

Insert in…

You want to know a tip? Don’t throw out that insert that comes with your FMF 4.1 muffler system! Why? Because I actually liked the SX Style headpipe/4.1 muffler system better with the insert in. Why? Because it gave the muffler some added back pressure and gave me some added RPM response without sacrificing a lot of mid range pulling power. With the insert in the muffler, the KX450 now has increased (0-10% throttle opening) low RPM throttle response that I was missing through mid corner and had better corner exiting power. With the insert in you also will get more connection to the rear wheel and more traction when the track gets firmer. The sound of the 4.1 muffler with the insert in is also more pleasant and isn't as loud as the larger opening of the FMF 4.1. NOTE: Not all bikes respond to inserts/back pressure the same so just know that each bike is different. If you feel like you may need a little more low end throttle response from your FMF 4.1 muffler system, try the insert.  


 It’s tough to get more horsepower, added connectivity, as well as an overall better engine character than what a stock exhaust can give, but FMF did a good job with the 2020 Kawasaki KX450 SX Style headpipe/4.1 RCT muffler. It retained the stock system’s low end RPM response, while getting some added bottom end pulling power, as well as mid range meat coming out of corners. In order to get the SX Style headpipe when you order, you must order the SX Style headpipe separate and use the 4.1 RCT slip on. If you order the full factory 4.1 RCT system you will be getting the MX Style headpipe. The SX Style headpipe costs $349.99 and the 4.1 RCT slip on will run you $549.99. The FMF 4.1 RCT muffler also comes with a mounting bracket for the subframe tab to ensure that the tab will not break or crack. Overall, I think this is a good upgrade to your 2019-2020 K450. 

If you have any questions about this test please feel free to contact me at I can guide you through any questions you may have. 

Ride Engineering Axle/Axle Block Kit For KTM/Husqvarna

KTM/Husqvarna uses an axle that resembles a bolt with a nut on one end. Although it’s nice not to have to mess with the left side axle block when putting in the axle through the swingarm, it’s not so friendly on the rear end of the bike while you're riding. Why? Because when you’re heavy on the throttle coming out of corners the rear end of your machine will squat under load putting force on the axle/axle blocks that sometimes can make the shock feel rigid and harsh. If the axle blocks can’t semi float (when hitting bumps under throttle) there will be some added rigidity put on the swingarm. Although crazy to think about little things like this can make a noticeable difference with the handling of your machine. 


Ride Engineering makes a KTM/Husqvarna axle/axle block kit that eliminates the one-piece axle/axle block on the KTM/Husqvarna. Instead, it uses a Honda CRF450R rear axle combined with special CNC-machined axle blocks that slip into the KTM/Husqvarna swingarm. However, you will need the special axle blocks to properly space the borrowed Honda axle. The Ride Engineering axle blocks retail for $54.95, and they offer Honda rear axles for $44.95, but how do they work? 


I am not going to sit here and blow smoke up your asses and say everyone that has a KTM/Husqvarna are going to feel this modification. Could I feel the difference when going back to back with the stock axle/Ride Engineering axle block kit? Yes, I could, but to me I only could feel it when coming out of corners with square edge as well as fast choppy conditions. After installing the Ride Engineering kit the rear of the bike felt more compliant and had less spike/harsh feel. I could feel more rear wheel traction immediately out of corners as the rear of the KTM/Husqvarna stayed straighter under throttle. I also felt like I could stiffen up my shock’s low speed compression because I had a free-er feel to the rear of the bike under load. To me a modification like this is worth it because I can actually feel more comfort. I had some of my less sensitive test riders help me with this test and one of them couldn't feel a thing, so installing the Ride Engineering Axle Block Kit should be based on how sensitive of a rider you are. 


The Ride Engineering Axle/Axle Block Kit does not add weight to the machine and in fact weighs a couple grams less than the KTM/Husqvarna axle, just in case you’re on a diet and counting your grams. The Ride Engineering axle blocks themselves come in black or orange and have a unique design that allows easy chain alignment with tabs that have markings that can be easily seen and measured off the end of the swingarm. The blocks are also 2mm shorter than stock for more gearing options.  

If you’re a sensitive rider and can feel your way around a motorcycle fairly well this Ride Engineering axle/axle block kit is a great way to get more connection out of your orange or white ride. Head over to to check them out. 

MX V2 ODI Lock On Half Waffle Grips 

Lock on grips are all the rage right now. I mean I get it, they're fairly inexpensive, easy to install, and takes literally a minute to install fresh grips and immediately go ride. I have been kind of old school in my “grip ways”, but thought I would test the ODI V2 Lock On Grips to let you all in on how they perform, fit, feel, and last. 


The V2 grip is designed with a low-profile pyramid pattern and a custom-designed half-waffle pattern that eliminates the inside corner where other grips may irritate your hands. Since you don’t need to glue or wire the grips in place, a lock-on grip can be installed in less than a minute (and riders who destroy their handlebars at the races can change to new bars without waiting for grip glue to dry). I do really like this feature of the lock-on grips, but at times I didn't like the rigid feel that the left side gave me (more on that later). I also liked that when you tip over, the grips didn’t rip nearly as easy, and it kept dirt from getting inside your handlebars.

Throttle cams are interchangeable on the V2 ODI Lock On Grips

Throttle cams are interchangeable on the V2 ODI Lock On Grips

Installing the clutch-side grip is simple. Slip the grip’s plastic tube onto the bar and tighten a single Allen bolt. Note: The clutch-side grip only has a pinch-bolt on the inside end. The benefit is that there is no hard aluminum clamp on the outer edge which leaves a cleaner look. I will say that if you're installing ODI Lock On’s onto new handlebars with knurling on the left side, you may have to sand down the knurling a little in order to be able to get the grip’s tube to slide over the handlebar.


Don’t think of the ODI V2 throttle side as just a grip, because it’s actually a plastic throttle tube with a grip molded on. ODI makes a throttle tube that accepts a variety of interchangeable throttle-cable cams. ODI makes different cams for most two-stroke and four-stroke models and you’re able to interchange the throttle cams if necessary. 

Even thought these are lock on grips and they have the grip molded to the plastic, they don’t feel that big. I can’t stand large feeling grips because they make my arms pump up too quick. I like that each end feels the same and not larger than the other, like some glue on style grips do. I liked the design of the half waffle as well as the super-soft material that wasn’t hard on my hands. You will notice that these grips are slightly shorter than other grips, but it doesn't create an issue with my size 10 (large glove) hands.

The durability of the V2 ODI grips are superb as they will last as long as any other soft half waffle grip on the market that I have tried. My son Aden has had a pair on his KTM 85SX for several months and they are just now starting to show signs of wear from his nervous novice death grip. If you’re a sensitive grip kind of rider you will notice that lock on grips will feel slightly stiffer than regular glue on style grips on slap down landings, braking bumps, and acceleration chop. These are just some things that I feel, but again not everyone is as sensitive to grips like I am. Glue on style grips feel a little more cushy than the lock on’s in those areas. 

For $25.95 the V2 ODI Lock On Grips cost double the amount of money (from glue on grips), but you're getting an easier to install grip that lasts just as long as well as a new throttle tube with every set. KTM and Husqvarna come with V2 ODI Lock On’s and I have found myself replacing worn stock KTM/Husqvarna ODI’s with the same grip because I have grown to like the feel of ODI’s in my hands, on these two machines. 

Any questions about this test feel free to email me at

Works Connection Titan Skid Plate

Written/Tested By Michael Allen:

Any dirt bike (be it off-road or motocross) should come stock with a skid plate. Some people may say that for motocross it’s not necessary to have one because there aren’t big rocks and hazards, but I feel that having a skid plate is cheap insurance for the under carriage of your engine. I’ve had the 2019 YZ 250F for quite a few months now and have felt a little vulnerable at times on the trail and have been sick of pressure washing off baked mud from the bottom of the engine when riding moto. After doing some skid plate research, I reached out to Works Connection to get one of their Titan skid plates to see if it would help my psyche. One of the cool things about Works Connection is that they make three different styles of skid plates for most models. They make an aluminum glide plate, an extended coverage aluminum skid plate, and a composite (like a good plastic) Titan skid plate. Over the past few years I have come to really like composite skid plates because they seem to be quieter than aluminum when roost/rocks hit them and also glance off obstacles smoother than aluminum. When I received the Titan skid plate it came with all the necessary hardware to mount it to the front of the frame (a clamp and bolts) and a bolt to mount it to an existing hole towards the rear. 


The rear bolt is very easy to install because the threaded hole is already in the frame, but make sure you do this first because it helps hold the skid plate in place while the front clamp is being installed. Once installed it was clear how much protection this skid plate offers, covering both side cases, the water pump and the lower radiator hose. There are a few drain/breather holes in the bottom of the skid plate so debris doesn’t get stuck between the engine and the skid plate. I have used the Titan skid plate for a couple months now and haven’t had any on track/trail problems; in fact it has come in quite handy on a couple trail rides (with my buddies) that turned into a dick measuring contest up rocky washes. The added coverage is a plus for protection and the fact that the mud doesn’t cake on the engine makes washing the bike that much easier. Work smarter not harder they say, right? Composite skid plates also have more flex than aluminum, which is good because it lets the chassis work as it should when hitting bumps/obstacles.


There were only two slight negatives when it came to the Titan skid plate. The first being that the front clamp mount, even when tight, doesn’t hold the skid plate super snug. The bolts bottom out, but the distance between the clamp arms and the skid plate is still slightly too large and lets the skid plate float somewhat (the skid plate is still snug, just not super clamped down). Being that the bolts are tight and the skid plate has nowhere to go, this isn’t an issue with a possible failure, but it was just something I wanted to mention in case you were installing and noticed the same thing. The second small issue was that the top front corner of the skid plate touches the bottom of the right radiator. Once again this isn’t a performance issue, but it was just something I noticed. 


With all this information factoring in I think that the Titan skid plate is a great option when it comes to protection. Some people are stuck in the old world of thinking that aluminum is the only option these days, but if I can evolve to composite so can you! With an MSRP of $99.95 the Titan skid plate is a great buy for the quality and the amount of protection it offers you on the track or trail. If you have any questions about the Works Connection Titan skid plate feel free to reach out to me at   

Tusk Impact Wheelset (2019 Yamaha YZ450F)

Mounting up some hubs/wheels is one of the first aftermarket modifications riders do to their ride. Do all dirt bikes need aftermarket wheels/hubs? No they don’t, but some can benefit from a beefier wheelset (like the Honda CRF250/450R and Yamaha YZ250/450F), so we decided to try the Tusk Impact wheelset and put some abuse on them to see if they really are a great purchase for your used or new steed. 


Yes, this test took a while, but we have put numerous hours on these wheels to see how they would hold up, because quite frankly we don’t want to push something on you if it’s a P.O.S. Tusk’s aluminum hubs are forged from 6061 T-6 aluminum, not cast, and CNC-machined for a quality fit. The Tusk hubs come with high-quality bearings, seals and hard anodized wheel spacers. We have over power washed these areas to see how they have held up and we were surprised that we didn't encounter any issues while testing. The rims are anodized and made from 7075-T6 aluminum. They aren’t the more popular D.I.D. or Takasago rims, but come from a Tusk supplier. The spokes are 3024 stainless steel and are heavier than other spoke choices (more on that in a minute). Tusk wheels come completely assembled and will interchange with the stock OEM wheel components, which is very seamless and nice for the consumer. 


Tusk’s Yamaha hubs are anodized blue, but aren't quite that “deep blue” we see on other hubs, which isn't a bad thing, but took sometime to get used to. The hub color is more of a light baby blue that offsets the black rims nicely. Tusk offers all of the colors of the manufacturer carousel so DO NOT worry they have every color for your ride. Yes, the Tusk wheelset is heavier than the standard OEM wheelset on the YZ450F, but if you’re reading this test I assume that weight isn't an issue for you. If you’re looking for a lower cost hub/rim than you shouldn't be looking at weight numbers, but we will give you the difference anyway. The Tusk front wheelset weighs in at 7 pounds 14 ounces and the stock OEM front wheelset weighs in at 7 pounds 11 ounces. NOT A HUGE DIFFERENCE! The Tusk rear wheelset weighs in at 11 pounds 9 ounces and the stock OEM rear wheelset comes in at 10 pounds 10 ounces. NOT THAT HUGE OF A DIFFERENCE. 


So how do they work on the track? Installing aftermarket wheelsets can change a bike’s character on the track. Some wheelsets can make a bike feel rigid and stiff, especially on slap down landings and on braking bumps. I DO NOT use Excel A-60 rims/Talon hubs because of the rigidity on square edge and braking bumps. These hubs immediately change any bikes handing character. The Tusk hub/rims are only slightly more rigid feeling than that of the stock Yamaha hubs/rims and DO NOT give me that harsh feeling on the track. Yes, it’s slightly firmer than the OEM hub/rims, but they aren’t so stiff that I wanted to take them off ASAP. If you’re purchasing these, give yourself a couple rides to adjust to them, but I am sure you will get acquainted fairly quickly. If they do feel slightly harsher than your stock wheelset try speeding up your rebound on your fork and shock 1-2 clicks to see if that helps. Trust me, it helps in almost every condition with stiffer wheelsets. This allows the wheel to follow the ground better and absorb some of that new found firmness of the hub/rim. 





So how did they hold up? Look… You can count on two things… I am a hard ass when it comes to wheels and clutches. These Tusk hubs/wheels have held up surprisingly well for a lower price point wheelset. The spokes needed to be checked after every ride for the first couple weeks of riding, but after that I didn't have to fuss with them that much. You especially need to keep an eye on the spokes closest to the rim lock, so if you’re lazy (which some of you are) and you don’t want to go around the complete wheel, use the first few spokes as a guide to judge if the others might be loose. In other words if the ones closest to the rim lock are loose then check the whole damn wheel! After almost 30 hours the rim did get a couple whoops in them, but nothing that warranted me to get a new wheel laced up. You know that feeling (when you’re in the air) and your wheel is bouncing around because it has a couple good whacks to it? Yeah, that feeling never happened to me over the course of this test. Good news! The anodizing will fade over time so be forewarned that if you use harsh chemicals like Simple Green or 409 to wash your machine, the hubs will discolor somewhat. I usually use Bike Wash from Blud Lubricants or Slick Products because they are less harsh on our bikes. 

So is the Tusk Wheelset worst it? If you’re looking for another set of wheels that you can take to the track (in case of a flat) for a spare, want a set of practice wheels, or just looking to freshen up your older machine with some bling, the Tusk Wheelset is a great choice. Are these the wheels that I would take to a Supercross? Not necessarily, but for 98% of us they are plenty strong enough. For $549.99 a set, this Tusk wheelset is a really good choice for the working man that loves to go rip on the weekends, wants to look cool, or maybe just wants a back up set so he doesn't have to change a tube/tire at the track between motos. 

I also understand that some people on my social media page say they have had bad luck with these wheels. I understand there is an exception to every evaluation, but I have put in a ton of hard hours on these and have seen zero failures on my end. This doesn't mean that this product is 100% bulletproof, but I would have zero issues riding with these wheels and or recommending these to all of you. If you have any questions about this test or product please feel free to email me at You can order the Tusk wheelset at and choose from an array of sizes and colors

X-Trig Rocs Pro Clamps (2019 Honda CRF450R)

I have been getting ready for the first two AMA outdoor nationals and knew that I was going to be running an aftermarket triple clamps and those clamps would be X-Trig. Since my practice bike was my test bike, I thought it would be beneficial to get a set of X-Trig clamps to ride/test with to make sure I could get the “feel” of an aftermarket triple clamp, since I am so used to riding with the stock clamps on the 2019 Honda CRF450R. Like I have spoken about before, it’s tough to find aftermarket triple clamps that perform better than stock these days. So much R&D is involved (at the OEM level) in making a triple clamp that flexes enough, but also has enough rigidity to aid the machine under load/through corners as well. With the triple clamp flex character so important to each specific chassis (on all motocross bikes) sometimes it’s tough to find anyone that can make a “comfortable” set of aftermarket triple clamps. Why do you need aftermarket triple clamps? Well sometimes it’s just for looks with some riders, but there are occasions where you might want another offset to help you get more stability or a sharper turning character out of your machine. In this case I was simply wanting to make sure that I wouldn't be trading comfort for stiffness on the Honda CRF450R somewhat finicky chassis setting.


Enter X-trig’s ROCS Tech Triple Clamps and PHDS Mounts. “ROCS” stands for “Revolutionary Opposing Clamp System”. The ROCS clamp allows for precise alignment of the fork tube with opposing clamping surface patterns, the stiffness of the steering stem is specifically tuned to the respective motorcycle model, the steering-head bearing is already mounted on the shaft tube for convenience, a special fork slot and clamping area for precise fork operation, precise clamping with special screws for low torque specs, OEM attachments can be mounted without auxiliary material, and flexibility that is adapted to the fork with anodizing in the technical factory OEM look. The difference between the ROCS “Tech” and the ROCS “Pro” is the “Tech” uses a standard offset with a pressed shaft tube. The “Pro” has two offsets you can choose from by simply adjusting the shaft tube (or steering stem). I felt it would be beneficial to try another offset with the Honda CRF450R for testing purposes, so I went with the ROCS Pro clamps. 

The PHDS (Progressive Handlebar Dampening System) is a system supported by elastomers designed to absorb engine and chassis vibrations. The system also dampens the forces acting on the handlebar in a horizontal and vertical direction, maintaining steering precision. The handlebar can be adjusted in 12 different positions when the PHDS is mounted. The Honda vibrates more in the handlebar area than any other 450 aluminum framed motocross bike, so this is something that I feel the Honda needs, in my opinion. 

Installation of the ROCS clamp is fairly straight forward (with the pressed shaft tube). All you need to do is grease up the steering head bearing and slide the bottom clamp up in the head tube of the frame. All of the front fender mounting points and even the OEM hour meter bolts up the same way with the X-trig clamps. Super clean! Mounting up the PHDS bar mounts is a little tricky as the mounts themselves have a lot of moving parts, so make sure to read the instructions to ensure proper mounting. Technical Touch offers optional PHDS bar mount elastomers that come in soft or firm, but I chose to run the stock medium style elastomers, which seem to be just fine for motocross conditions. 


I am super picky about bar positioning, shocking I know, so I went with the mounting hole closest to me (when sitting on bike) on the triple clamp with the PHDS mounts forward. This handlebar position gave me a +1 mm bar position (forward from stock), which I preferred as the stock Honda rider triangle is just fine for my 6’0 frame. The PHDS bar mount itself is the same height as the stock bar mount, which also was good for me and I mated the clamp/mount with a Pro Taper EVO SX RACE handlebar. Having so many positions available for the rider is definitely a huge positive for adjustability with these ROCS clamps. If you feel like you need a higher PHDS handlebar mount, X-trig also offers spacers to go under the PHDS mounting system. You can pick from 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm spacers.


So what did the X-trig ROCS Tech Triple Clamp and PHDS handlebar mounts do on the track? My goal for this test was to not gain front end rigidity, get a more precise front end feel through corners, without getting deflection on hard pack/rough straights. Basically trying to NOT get a harsher ride on the Honda, tough to do right? The good news is that this is exactly what I found with the X-trig ROCS Tech/PHDS system, but there is some fine print that I want to fill you in on. The X-trig ROCS Tech clamp on the CRF450R provided enough flex and doesn’t feel like it negatively affected front end bump absorption, but was also stiff enough to give me a positive front wheel feel through flat corners. The ROCS Tech clamp is most noticeable when diving deep into a rut where there is a huge load put on the front end, forced by the rider. The chassis positivity through this area is better than the stock clamps. The stock clamps has a tendency to flex too much and give the rider a wiggle immediately off throttle (on deeply tilled tracks or soft dirt) or give the rider an unsettled (dive) when dropping into a long/deep rut (this sensation can only be felt mostly by faster or heavier riders). The X-trig ROCS Tech clamp gives the front end less wallow (firmer) and more cornering stability (without upsetting chassis balance). Straight line stability is as good as stock and front end bump absorption is only minimally stiffer feeling on braking bumps/square edge. 

Optional Setting: I have tried the ROCS “Tech” with the pressed steering stem shaft as well and that set up is a little firmer of a feel as well as provided a little more rigidity (I found out this when I went to ride my race bike, which has the “Tech” installed). The differences are small, but I did feel it nonetheless. Going to a 24mm offset on the ROCS “Pro” helped the Honda settle down on faster tracks. Running the fork up 4mm with a 24mm offset really helped calm this chassis down for 2:00PM motos (AKA ROUGH TRACKS). The 24mm offset did affect the Honda’s turn in capabilities and made it feel slightly heaver through corners. If you’re looking to slow the chassis down on faster tracks try going to the 24mm offset, 105mm’s of sag, and the fork up 4mm. 

The PHDS mounts do not vibrate nearly as much as the OEM rubber mounted bar mounts. The PHDS bar mounts flex as good as stock with the standard elastomers (up and down), but dampen vibration noticeably better around the track (especially at higher RPM’s). Slap down landings are improved slightly and front end positivity (entrance into corners) are as good as an OEM feel. Simply put, the vibration characteristics the PHDS mounts provide are well worth their weight in gold. I use “weight” because they are heavier than stock ones by quite a bit, but I will gladly take some extra ounces over vibration any day. 

The cost of the X-trig ROCS Tech Triple Clamps and PHDS handlebar mounts are $900.00. The cost is more expensive than other triple clamps out on the market by a couple hundred bucks. However, there are only two triple clamps that I have tested, that to me, are as good or better than stock. If you're looking to get a set of clamps for the temperamental Honda CRF450R “vibes” pick up some front end cornering stability, get an optional offset, and even improve the looks of your Honda, X-trig has some really nice clamps and handlebar mounts available for your red motocross machine. You can check out and purchase all of the X-trig products over at   

If you have any questions about this test please feel free to email me at

Pro Taper Fuzion Handlebar

The Pro Taper Fuzion handlebar has been around for a while now and was a totally new concept to the off-road world (for crossbar lovers) when it was released a few years ago. The flex/locking system allows riders to choose between a stiffer/more controlled handlebar feel or a softer more shock absorbing feel depending on terrain and rider preference. Changing the bar from “Locked” to “Unlocked” takes only seconds by simply removing the bar pad and turning a knob. The Fuzion utilizes Pro Taper’s exclusive aluminum alloy, 4mm wall design for lightweight, strength and comes in six different bar bends.


 Depending on what type of bike I am riding depends on if I like running a crossbar or not. For example, lately when I have been riding a KTM/Husqvarna I like to run a crossbar because it feels better through corners to me visually (I know, don't ask). When I ride a Yamaha I go to a handlebar without a crossbar. Why? You guessed it, because they come stock with that style and it feels normal to me. I usually can tell the difference in stiffness when I go back and forth between each type of bar I ride with, so this made me want to test the Fuzion technology.


 The 1-1/8 Fuzion handlebar weighs in at 1lb,15oz. and was put on several of my test bikes. The easy-to-adjust locking system can be adjusted by simply taking the bar pad off and turning the knob in the middle of the crossbar. If you’re used to running a 7/8 bar with a crossbar on your bike, but want some added strength, the Fuzion can be a great option. The downside to using a standard oversize bar with a crossbar is getting added rigidity through the bars that could be hard on the arms/wrists. Setting the Pro Taper Fuzion to the “unlock” position was most noticeable on the 2019 Honda CRF450R due to it being a more rigid feeling chassis. In stock form the Honda comes with a Renthal Fatbar handlebar and putting the Fuzion bar on gave me a less rigid through my arms. On braking bumps and hard slap down landings the Fuzion bar flexed as if I didn’t have a cross bar on. Does it flex more than an oversize crossbar-less handlebar? After spending more time on both types of bars I would say it’s very similar, but the crossbar-less handlebar still has a bit more flex to it.


 I am very picky when it comes to handlebars and I felt that the Fuzion handlebar (when in the “locked” position) is slightly more precise (than on the unlocked position) when trying to corner on hard pack slick surfaces. Also, to my surprise only a little more rigidity was felt on braking bumps and on flat landings when “locked”. The smoother the track surfaces the better the Fuzion worked in the locked position. However, 90% of the time I felt the Fuzion felt best when “unlocked”. Especially for the hacked out, choppy, desert tracks I test on.  A few tip overs and one big get off left me praising the Fuzion’s durability. This happened on the Husqvarna and the handlebar got twisted in the bar mounts, but the handlebar itself wasn’t bent.


 So at the end of the day why not just use an oversize crossbar-less handlebar you ask? The Fuzion handlebar eliminates having “crossbar lovers” cut their oversized crossbar handlebars for increased flex (and avoiding potential handlebar failure to achieve desired flex when he/she demands a crossbar). I like that ProTaper addressed the need for this niche market and cater to picky people like myself. Yes, it’s more expensive (at $129.99) than your average 7/8 handlebar, but it also will withstand a bigger crash.  

Fire Power Featherweight Lithium Battery

Fire Power is company owned by WPS (Western Power Sports) and they have recently come to market with a new Lithium battery to replace your OEM battery. The Fire Power battery components are designed, manufactured, assembled and packed in one location assuring high quality and consistency, are lighter than your standard OEM battery, has a built-in LED test gauge, has increased cranking amps over lead acid batteries, a fast recharge that can be brought up to a 90% charge within 6-7 minutes, has a claimed longer cycle life compared to lead acid batteries, a longer shelf life (up to 1 year before requiring recharging), can be mounted in any position, comes with no hazardous acid or heavy metals, non-explosive and non-combustible, and comes with a two-year warranty. 


We tried a Fire Power battery in our 2019 Yamaha YZ250F and our 2019 Honda CRF450R with great results. The Yamaha YZ250F is sluggish to start and absolutely hates starting in gear. The YZ250F battery also took a crap on us (completely died) only a couple months in, so a new battery was in order. After installing the Fire Power battery into our CRF450R/YZ250F not only did they fire up quicker, but starting both in gear was slightly better as well. Fitting it into both machines was easy, but we didn’t like that the little square threaded nut (inside of the posts) could fall out, if the battery was tipped, so be aware of that when installing. The Fire Power battery on the Honda is slightly smaller than the OEM battery, so there will be a little more space inside the cage (in the airbox).   

Letting our Honda sit idle in the shop for over one month proved to not be a problem for the Fire Power battery as the red bike fired up instantly. The LED test light is also a nice feature just in case you decide the night before that you want to ride the following day. Not all of us ride every weekend, so this feature helps with the rider who may take a longer breaks in between riding sessions. Simply take your seat off, push the LED test light button and make sure your good to go for the following day’s activities. 

What about weight? The stock OEM Honda CRF450R battery weighs in at 1.06 pounds and the Fire Power battery weighed in at 0.95 pounds. Cutting some weight up high on any dirt bike is essential and will improve the handling character, especially leaning into corners. is it enough weight for you guys to feel on the track? Probably not, but it doesn't hurt to lose weight and add some cranking power on a four-stroke at any time. 


For $119.95 this Fire Power battery is a fairly inexpensive way to get some starting security on longer trail rides, days at the moto track, and lose a little weight in the process. You can check out all the Fire Power products over at or if you have any questions feel free to email me at I’m an open book!  

Yoshimura RS-4 SS/AL Full Muffler System For 2019 Kawasaki KX450

By: Dominic Cimino

Any of you that stay up to date with us here at Keefer Inc. are aware that I really enjoy riding the 2019 KX450. Like I really enjoy it. Maybe it is because we have the chassis and suspension dialed in just for me or maybe it’s just because the bike is so damn fun. Either way, I am excited to continue making improvements to this bike in the upcoming months because every time I ride it I feel faster. Next on the chopping block is the motor department and we decided to start with exhaust first. I wanted to test the RS-4 Stainless Steel Yoshimura system because I have had great luck in the past using their systems on other bikes and the guys over there always take great care of us. 

Yoshimura exhaust systems are made from scratch right here in Southern California. Their R&D facility houses everything from the race team shop, dyno/engine rooms, to the space where they lay all of their own carbon fiber. The attention to detail and quality of product is top notch in everything they produce and to give you a little more background on Yosh, you can watch this short clip:

Although it is a couple years old and mainly showcases road racing disciplines, trust me when I say that it all translates equally into motocross. You can sleep peacefully knowing that your investment is going to be worth it. 


The stock exhaust system on the 2019 KX450 is not too bad overall. Beside it looking really bad (that is a no-contest) and weighing a decent amount, it produces a good tone and useable power. I think this exhaust compliments the motor and power delivery well by keeping things linear and quick revving - one of my favorite traits about this bike overall. But on the flip side, the motor does lack some “meat” in the RPM range and the over-rev tends to sign off relatively quickly at the top. Installation of the new Yosh was quick and easy with every single piece fitting in place perfectly. I love when that happens! The stainless/aluminum system that I tested weighed over a pound less than the stocker and comes in at a fair price of $675.78. In roughly ten minutes, the KX looked better instantly with the new system in place, and when I pushed the button to wake her up, she sounded healthier too. I am not a fan of obnoxiously loud exhaust systems so I was happy to listen to the Yosh when cracking the throttle on the stand. Definitely louder than stock, but not deafening. 


Before installing the new Yoshimura system, I did a couple morning motos at Glen Helen to get the best gauge of the stock comparison. The most obvious difference when cruising back onto the track was the tone, as it has a deeper/healthier sound. But when in stride, the exhaust made the KX come to life from the mid range and beyond. The linear power curve stayed true on delivery, but exemplified a more crisp powerful feel when on throttle. I felt the Yoshimura system was able to harness a little more “meat” that I have been searching for and also helped push the bike into the higher revs more efficiently. On the top end, over-rev was increased quite a bit as the KX seemed to pull longer and harder overall. I noticed when charging down Mt. Saint Helen I could hold 2nd gear almost half way down the hill before hitting the limiter. The stock exhaust would sign off way earlier than that in the beginning part of the day. I also realized I stayed in 2nd gear almost all the way around the Glen Helen circuit. This is a testament to the linear power I have been talking about on this 2019 KX450, and the Yoshimura system makes it even better. Where I didn’t notice a substantial improvement was bottom end power delivery. The KX is not a torquey bike in stock trim by any means, but I was expecting to get a little more bark with the new system. This was not the case and I found myself clutching the bike in the soft corners to wake it up in order to get back into the mid range, where I think it excels. 


Overall, the new Yoshimura exhaust system is a great performance improvement to this already great bike. Looks good, sounds good, and runs good - thats what it’s all about, right? Obviously, I am going to set my sights on continuing to improve the power delivery to round out this new KX450. I am happy with the mid/top end feel, so maybe we can experiment with new map settings to get a little more lovin’ down low.  As always, stay tuned for what is next here at Keefer Inc. If you have any questions about the 2019 KX450 please feel free to email me at  Or you can head over to to see what they offer for your green machine.

Ride Engineering Billet Kill/Engine Starter Button

 By: Matt Sirevaag

Modern day dirt bikes are getting more complex with electronics, buttons, switches, and other high tech gadgets. This seems to leave less room on the bars for handguards, GPS mounts or any accessory that the consumer may want to install on the bars. I am not like Kris however, because “I love hand guards”,  so I was a little sad when there wasn’t much room on our 2019 FC350 handlebars to mount any. Since I was bummed, Kris suggested that I test out Ride Engineering’s Billet Engine Kill/Starter Button. Ride Engineering designed the button in hopes to clean up some of the clutter as well as gain a little room for anything that you may want to mount.

New Way…

New Way…

As the heading states you can use the Ride Engineering button for a kill switch or a starter button. The new button/switch mounts on most current bikes via the clutch or brake lever mount and to me seems like a smart idea as you kill two birds with one stone. You already have real estate on your handlebars for a brake or clutch so why not mount your kill/starter button to one of those and free up some room right? However just not that installation on any Husqvarna and KTM will only allow the Ride Engineering button to be mounted to throttle tube housing. Installation is fairly easy as I unbolted the throttle tube housing on our 2019 Husqvarna FC350, used the supplied bolts (that are longer than stock), and mounted up the new switch as my starter button. There are a couple of ways to wire this switch after cutting the old one out, but I suggest soldering the wires and using shrink tubing. This will make sure you have a good corrosion and water resistant connection. 

Old Way…

Old Way…

The Ride Engineering starter/kill button does exactly what it was designed to. It leaves you more room on the handlebars as well as give your cockpit a cleaner appearance. I have had zero issues (while riding) using the Ride Engineering button and it hasn't missed a beat, even after riding in freak Southern California rain storms (as well as with bike washes). The only squabble I had is that the button position is at the mercy of your throttle tube housing and or lever angle. I would like to have my starter button facing upwards in case I stall the bike and need to push the button in a hurry. This is nothing more than a personal preference, but something I wanted to mention. The Ride Engineering starter/kill button comes in polished aluminum or anodized black and retails for $54.95. You can find all Ride Engineering products over at

Acerbis Footpeg Protectors

Have you ever been ripping ruts or laying it over in a corner only to find that your footpegs are stuck upwards? You either spend the next straight slamming down on the peg (with your boot) or maybe you find yourself pulling off of the track to get the dirt out between your return pedal spring/pegs. Yes, it’s a pain in the ass and some bikes are worse than others (like the Honda CRF450R). Well, Acerbis has been making these rubber footpeg protectors for sometime, but a lot of you may not know about them. 


Constructed of EPDM 40 rubber, the Acerbis footpeg covers are designed to keep dirt out of your footpeg/return spring area so that the pegs can return properly once you bury it into a rut/corner. The installation takes some patience, but once you manage to spread the rubber around the peg and onto the footpeg mount/spring area, you can position it so that it is tucked up in there neatly. 


The Honda CRF250R/450R collects the most mud/debris in the footpeg area and I frankly got sick of trying to stomp down my pegs after I have ripped a deep rut. The Acerbis rubber protectors kept the dirt out of the footpeg springs throughout each moto and I never once had to worry about getting my footpegs hung up. The rubber is fairly durable and can withstand some abuse of rocks, sand, and the occasional strong power washes. I have only ripped one rubber protector (at Glen Helen) on a rock and although it sliced the bottom of the rubber, it still held onto the peg and did its job for the rest of the day. 

For around $20.00 I would keep a couple sets of these Acerbis footpeg protectors handy in the tool box for early morning motos or just leave them on 24/7. The Acerbis footpeg protectors fit all modern Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, KTM, Husqvarna, and Kawasaki dirt bikes. You can get these at or

Hoosier MX Tire Test

The name Hoosier has been around four wheel racing for quite sometime, but only recently have we become to know Hoosier in the two-wheel motocross market. Hoosier was purchased by Continental Tire in 2016, but since has continued its racing heritage by manufacturing racing tires for many types of racing platforms. Since I have spent tons of time testing tires over my years, I was very intrigued by the tire and the brand’s willingness to enter into the motocross market. Hoosier has no problem claiming that their motocross tires are “racing” tires and should be looked at in that way. I got my hands on a couple sets of Hoosier tires to try, with different compounds, to see if in fact they were good enough for me to purchase some for myself. 


 Hoosier has three different compounds set up for the consumer (MX20, MX25, MX30). They also offer an 18 inch version for you off-roaders, but not a 100/90-19 version yet for you 125 two-stroke guys. Each compound has a different carcass stiffness/feel and is there for the consumer to customize their own set up for what type of conditions or feel he or she rides/wants. I tested the MX25 front/MX20 rear and a MX30 front/MX25 rear compound on a Husqvarna FC450 and Honda CRF450R. If you want to know more about these tires go check out the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast right here on or to get even further analysis.

Tracks Tested At And Conditions: 

Sunrise Cycle Park = Soft to intermediate terrain.

Private Test Tracks = Hard to intermediate terrain.

Local Riverbed Sand Track = Sandy to soft. 

Mounting: There wasn't anything abnormal that stood out to us when mounting the Hoosier’s on several sets of rims. The Michelin and Pirelli tires go on a little easier, but for how hard the tire feels to your fingers (when pushing on the knobbies/side wall) it goes on relatively well.

Weight: The Hoosier tires are extremely lightweight coming in at 8.02 pounds for the 80/100-21 front tire and 10.1 pounds for the 120/90-19 rear tire. Compared to a Dunlop MX33 front tire at 9.01 pounds and 12.04 pounds for the MX33 rear tire. 


MX25/MX30 Front Tire Performance:   

I am super picky when it comes to front tires and to be completely honest I haven't had a front tire that I am completely happy with since the Dunlop 756RR. I do like a Michelin StarCross 5 Soft tire, but to me since the Dunlop MX3S is discontinued that’s all I have to choose from. That is until now… The Hoosier MX25 front tire has a carcass feel unlike any other tire on the market. It's soft playable nature is reminiscent of a factory spec tire that I have only had the pleasure to ride on a handful of times. It soaks up a lot of square edge and bumps on different types of soil and acts like a second set of suspension. The MX25 front tire adds front end chassis comfort to a Honda CRF450R, which is huge on this type of a more rigid feeling machine. The MX25 front tire has more lean angle bite (off-throttle) when starting your lean for corners than any other tire I have tested the past few years. As soon as you get off the throttle to enter a rut or berm, you will notice the tire pulls down the front end more while biting the ground (very grabby). This may take some time for some riders to get used to, but I like the fact that it doesn’t have that initial vague feel of a Dunlop MX33. Once the Hoosier MX25 gets into the corners its side knobs work well in a wide variety of terrain (from mild hard pack to soft terrain). I do notice that all Hoosier front tires look/feel wider and taller than other 80/100-21 tires, but in the world of tire sizing, I am told there is a spec range for each size tire to vary from (and the Hoosier MX25 is within spec of the 80/100-21 range). I do notice however once installed the MX25 front tire makes your front end ride a little taller (compared to other manufacturers front tires), which can lead you to adjusting your fork height. I ended up dropping my fork height 2mm’s on the Husqvarna to compensate for the taller front end feel and that helped with balancing the bike out coming into corners. However on the Honda, it actually helped the low front end/stinkbug feeling rear end somewhat. 

To me if you're an aggressive type of rider that pushes the boundaries of the side wall of the front tire you will like the Hoosier’s MX30 front tire’s compound a little more. I found when going to harder clay base types of tracks this tire didn't roll as much on lean angle and provided me with almost as much carcass comfort on square edge/braking bumps. I also liked cornering stability a little more with the MX30 front tire versus the MX25 due to its more predictable/less rolling nature. The MX30’s braking is not as grabby as the MX25, but I am highly sensitive to this (some of you less sensitive riders may not notice). I let my other novice test rider ride both front tires back to back and he couldn't tell any difference on straight/lean angle braking performance. 


MX20/MX25 Rear Performance:

The MX20 rear tire has incredible straight line traction (on-throttle) and gives the Husqvarna and Honda an amazing amount of traction coming out of corners. Lean angle traction was superb when the conditions were soft, but when the track hardened up this carcass felt like it rolled on the rim too much and had a tendency to wash out. Just like the front tire, the MX20 rear tire’s carcass feel has so much comfort, it really makes the suspension on the Husqvarna and Honda have an increased damping feeling that I haven't felt from a production tire. Inside shallow ruts the rear tire’s ability to drift is not as apparent and if you want to brake slide around corners this tire makes it tough to do so. For me I love that feeling because I steer with my front tire, but some of you rear end steering riders may not like this feel. To me this is a pure soft/sand type of rear tire that doesn't like too much sidewall pressure (on intermediate to hard terrain) for aggressive riders. 

The MX25’s tire cushion was just as friendly as the MX20, but also could be pushed harder on the sidewall under throttle. When hard on the gas (on fast sweeping corners) the MX25’s ability to not drift was a welcomed feeling. I could leave the throttle on under lean and not get a rear end wash feel like the MX20 had. Slap down landings on the rear tire was one of the first positives I noticed from the MX25, once I entered the track. Over jumping certain singles to flat didn't give me as much of a harsh feel as other production tires and that gave me less fatigue during a longer moto. Maneuverability or the ability to change directions of the MX25’a knobbies let you make quick line choice decisions without any rear end push. The MX25 just has a comfort level that most tires do not have when the track gets imperfections late in the day. 

How Does The Lack Of Weight Affect The Handling Of The Bike?:

The Hoosier tires are lightweight… Although Hoosier wouldn't indulge too much on how they achieved such a lightweight tire, I will give you some insight on what I feel when I slap a set of these Hoosier’s on (compared to a Dunlop MX33). The Hoosier tires feel unlike any other tire on the market. For how stiff they feel off the bike, they feel extremely soft and supple when riding with them. You really have to pay attention to the tire pressure (of the Hoosier’s) and forget about what pressures you’re running on other tires as well. When pushing into corners I can feel the initial part of the sidewall flex fairly easy, but then get progressively stiffer as more pressure is applied (front and rear). This is a unique feeling and took me a few added laps to get used to, but adjusting tire pressure helps dial in the firmness the initial part of the sidewall has.  

Positives Of The Hoosier Tires:

  • Lean angle traction (MX25 front/rear)

  • Rear tire straight line traction  

  • Carcass feeling

  • Lightweight 

Negatives Of The Hoosier Tires:

  • Knob chunking on MX20 rear tire

  • If worn down somewhat the excellent lean angle traction isn’t as apparent 

  • Tire pressure is critical with these compounds (must check air pressure during the course of the day more)

Durability Of The Hoosier Tires: 

So if you're slapping down $125.00 per tire, I am sure you want to know about durability right? The Hoosier MX20 rear tire will chunk if using it on harder terrain (around the 4 hour mark). I put around almost 10 engine hours on the other compounds (MX 25 and MX30) and although worn, they didn't chunk. The downside to the Hoosier’s is that when the tire gets half worn, the performance drops a considerable amount (compared to a Dunlop MX33). To me the Hoosier is a pure racing tire and should be taken as such.  

Tire Pressures:   

MX20 Rear: 14-15 PSI

MX25 Rear: 13.5-14 PSI

MX25 Front: 13.5-14.5 PSI

MX30 Front: 13-13.5 PSI 

You can check out the Hoosier’s over at

FMF Factory 4.1 Slip-On (2019 Yamaha YZ450FX)

Story By: Michael Allen

The simple fact that more manufacturers are offering off-road closed course competition bike’s brings a smile to my face since at heart I’m an off-road lover. That being said I feel like most manufacturers should know that 99% of all off-road racing organizations require race bikes to be equipped with a spark arrestor. Although the bikes are really good in stock trim, this issue has opened up a nice market for aftermarket exhaust manufacturers to be able to come in and save the day while making bikes race legal. I recently ran into this issue when I decided to race our 2019 Yamaha YZ 450FX at a local District 37 Sprint Enduro and realized last minute that I needed a legal muffler. I made a couple calls, but before I knew it FMF saved the day and I had a slip on Factory 4.1 on its way (two days before heading to the race). 


When I got the new 4.1 slip on muffler I immediately installed it, which was very self-explanatory and the fit and finish of the stainless can mated to the carbon endcap was top notch. Now here is the part of the story where Kris gave me crap about the spark arrestor… Admittedly I was putting on the muffler last minute and rushing to get all of my stuff ready to race the next day and I did what everyone says not to do; I assumed…. I assumed that the muffler came from FMF with the spark arrestor screen already installed, so I didn’t even think twice before loading up my bike and heading to the race. Well… I soon found out (thanks to my friend Brendon) that I didn’t have a spark arrestor because as Kris warned me about (and I forgot) FMF puts the insert in the bottom of the muffler box, where it stayed in my recycle bin until I got home that night. Luckily I was able to squeak through sound and spark arrestor testing and go to the start line. 


Initially what I noticed when I fired the 450FX up was that the new muffler was slightly louder (without the screen insert) than the stock muffler. This slightly louder sound was deeper than the somewhat raspy sounding stock muffler. The performance of the stock muffler was by no means hampering the 450FX power character, in fact it was quite good, but like I said, I needed a spark arrestor. The new 4.1 has a larger opening than the stock muffler, which in turn gives the 450FX slightly less back pressure. With a little less back pressure the FX lost a touch of smoothness in the very bottom end, giving the bike a more on/off feel. The tradeoff for the on/off feeling on the other hand was that the bike gained some over-rev and seemed to pull slightly longer into the RPM range. During the race I changed maps to try and smooth out the bottom end which helped, but didn’t completely remedy the bottom end touchiness. After getting home, going into my recycle bin (thankful the trash man didn’t come) and installing the spark arrestor insert, the bottom end delivery smoothed back out. With the insert comes a quieter sound, which was welcomed as well as some added back pressure. The back pressure gives this bike a little more lugability without wanting to flame out, so I didn’t have to worry as much about covering the clutch in tighter sections of the trail. 


The bottom line is that all bikes marketed to off-road racers should come with spark arrestor inserts, they don’t. That being said, FMF has done a great job at providing the off-road community a multitude of choices for whatever their specific type of riding entails. From full titanium systems, to more affordable aluminum slip on mufflers, FMF seems to have all the bases covered. At $449.99 for the stainless/carbon slip on that I installed, I think it’s a good combination of not breaking the bank while still looking slick at the track (not to mention that it takes almost two full pounds off your bike). If you have any  questions, or just want to tell me I’m a dumbass for not seeing the spark arrestor in the box, feel free to reach out to me at . 

Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack

I am hard on clutches. Why? Well…Instead of letting off the throttle when the front wheel starts to loft upward, I simply just slip/drag the clutch a little to modulate the power, so I can get to point A to point B in a faster manner, without letting off of the throttle. This way of riding puts a lot of strain on the clutch and the plates that are inside any given bike’s engine. I usually can get anywhere between 8-10 hours on a Yamaha YZ450F clutch and the boys at Yamaha are frankly sick of handing me clutch plates every other week. We have tested the Rekluse Torque Drive kit in our Honda CRF450R. However, if you do not want to spend that kind of money on your clutch, Rekluse offers a Torque Drive Clutch Pack that utilizes the OEM clutch parts that replace your stock fibers, steels, and springs with their thinner plates and basket sleeves. 


The Torque Drive Clutch pack on the Yamaha YZ450F utilizes 12 friction plates, 10 steel plates, six springs, and steel basket inserts to fit over every finger of your clutch basket. The idea behind Rekluse’s clutch pack is to use what they learned with their Torque Drive system and put it into an OEM platform. Rekluse is setting out to increase your OEM’s clutch capacity by increasing the number of plates, so you can get more of a positive connection at the rear wheel (AKA less slipping). 

I wanted to do this test and run the stock clutch and Rekluse clutch back to back, so I started the test with one moto on the stocker and one moto with the Rekluse. The clutch pack doesn't take much time to install, but be careful sliding the steel sleeves onto your basket as sometimes they can be slippery. You don't want to be fishing sleeves out of your engine/clutch basket all day. Once installed and out on the track (with the Rekluse) the first thing I noticed is a lighter clutch pull feel than the already fairly light feel of the Yamaha YZ450F. After doing my first 25 minute moto with the Rekluse I could tell that there were some improvements in performance. Coming out of corners I could roll on the throttle without modulating/covering my clutch because I had increased positivity to the rear wheel. With the Rekluse I also felt like I had a small increase in throttle response from 0-10% throttle opening. There wasn't much of a torque/pulling power increase, but I did notice (at crack of throttle) the Rekluse had more bite/snap. The good news about getting this extra response is that it didn't affect control or power delivery through deep ruts. 


The clutch engagement however was little more grabby on/off feel than the stock one, but wasn't so bad where I couldn't feed my clutch properly while doing starts. The real benefit to me was the lifespan of my clutch in two aspects. One aspect is the toughness this clutch pack has in longer motos (Testing Term: Track Toughness). Since it’s been raining a lot in Southern California I have been testing on sand tracks more than usual and the Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack has provided me with less clutch drag when the engine heats up. I love to run third gear through corners, lug coming out, slip the clutch while exiting, and start to accelerate down the straight. Doing this puts a heavy load on my engine and the Rekluse Clutch Pack allows me to do this more without getting the plates too hot to where they start slipping during a moto. The second aspect that the Rekluse has sold me on was the overall lifespan that I am able to get out of the Rekluse. I have used the Rekluse Clutch Pack almost 14 engine hours and am just now starting to feel it slip/drag. I am getting a six hour increase in life, which is huge for me! 

The only downfall to the Rekluse Clutch Pack is that it is more expensive than buying an OEM clutch kit. At $349.00 it’s over a $120.00 more, but then again, you will be getting more life out of a Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack than your OEM plates. The cool looking Rekluse cover (which you don't need with the kit) doesn't come with the kit, but if you want to bling out your steed, the cost for the cover is $159.00. If you're hard on your clutch or maybe you're a hard core racer that wants the benefit of a Torque Drive clutch without the cost, the Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack is an excellent purchase.

Hinson Nine Plate And Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Comparison

I originally wanted to do a Hinson versus Rekluse clutch test for the 2019 Honda CRF450R, but after going back and forth for a few weeks (testing these parts), I decided that both of these mods are such an improvement over the stock clutch system, that there shouldn't be a “winner”. Each clutch has a specific character/feel on the track, but both are equally as impressive and much better than the stock system. Since we had to purchase our own 2019 Honda CRF450R test bike this year, I wanted to really try/test quality upgrades, that this bike absolutely “needed”, since we would be having to sell this unit at the end of the year. The 2019 CRF450R “needed” a clutch upgrade and so this evaluation process was born. I let my resident mechanic/blue collar test guy Matt Sirevaag install and ride with each clutch system initially and then I tested each to get my impression. This article is based on what we thought collectively, but if you want to hear even more background/feedback about these parts, check out the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast that will be up very shortly. -KK

 For years Hinson has been one of the go to clutch manufacturers for factory motocross and off-road race teams. In the last few years Rekluse has been making a name for itself as they are now on a ton of race teams in any given paddock as well. So when it was time to install a clutch in our 2019 Honda CRF450R test bike, it only seemed right to ring up Hinson and Rekluse to see what they had to offer for a bike that needed help in this department. Hinson sent us their complete nine plate clutch kit (part # HC989-1901 ) that adds two extra friction plates (to a total of nine), while the stock Honda CRF450R uses seven friction plates. The Hinson complete clutch kit comes with a new clutch basket, inner hub, pressure plate, fibers, steels, clutch springs and let’s not forget the icing on the cake, a billet proof clutch cover. This is a complete kit that replaces all of your stock clutch components. 


Rekluse sent us their Core Manual Torq-Drive clutch kit (part # RMS-7101002). This kit goes a couple steps further using twelve friction plates. Yes, you read that right twelve plates! The Rekluse Torque Drive Kit comes with inner clutch hub, Torq-Drive friction plates, thin steels plates, pressure plate, core clutch springs, spring screws with screw sleeves, basket sleeves, new tab washer, and a beautiful Rekluse clutch cover.


When it comes to the 2019 CRF450R there are a couple items that can be addressed to improve the clutch. It has been well known that Honda has not exactly led the 450cc class in clutch life and/or in the clutch lever pull department. These have been weak points on the Honda CRF450R for quite sometime and usually the bike gets ranked down in shootouts because of it. Honda has made progress from their old four spring clutch as the new CRF450’s have gone back to a six spring clutch. The stock 2019 CRF450R clutch has a very narrow window of engagement and is tough to really get a linear engagement/progressive actuation when attacking the track. This makes it very hard to modulate the power in corners as the clutch makes the power similar to a light switch that has an on or off type of feel. I am sure most of you Honda guys can relate as our email inbox has seen a flood of Honda clutch questions. The clutch pull takes He-Man type strength and can expedite arm pump in a moto, which sucks huge for us blue collar riders! With a narrow window of clutch engagement and a very hard clutch pull it really makes it difficult to manage the power (of the Honda), especially late in the moto as fatigue starts to set in. The stock Honda clutch also tends to fade as the moto’s get longer and if you're a clutch dragger like Keefer is, things can get ugly (or hot) in a hurry. This leads us to clutch life; I am not even close to what you call a clutch abuser (like Keefer), but I have always taken pride in the life I can get out of a stock clutch on other machines. With this Honda CRF450R I even showed signs of wear and slightly burnt clutch plates at less than twenty hours. This was a problem that needed to be addressed. 

Besides riding these dirt bikes, I love working in the garage and wrenching on them. When the Hinson package arrived I told the wife I would be eating dinner in the shop and I began to tear into the 2019 CRF450R’s clutch. Just be forewarned that this Hinson system is a more in-depth install then just changing out clutch fibers and steels. There are some special tools needed to help with install of the clutch basket. Besides your basic hand tools you will need a clutch hub holding tool to remove and Install the new clutch hub. Also needed is a drill or grinder to remove the primary drive gear from the stock hub, so that you can re-install it onto the new Hinson billet hub. Hinson provides great instructions with pictures, which are very helpful for you novice mechanics out there (cough, cough, Keefer). Lastly don’t forget to use your OEM Owners Manual to provide you with the correct torque specs. Hinson also states adding 300cc more oil than stock, so 1300cc without changing an oil filter and 1350cc with oil filter replacement is your new levels with the Hinson Kit.


The first test of the Hinson clutch system was during the Dubya USA Vet Nationals at Glen Helen. Right off the bat I noticed that the clutch pull was slightly easier, which made me happy right away. The second positive aspect of the Hinson clutch that I noticed was that the engagement of the clutch was not nearly as narrow (or on/off) as the stock clutch. I feel this was the best part about the Hinson set up because it really helped open up my corners. I now had a clutch that I could easily modulate the power of the Honda’s engine character without shutting off the throttle. Most times with the stocker I would have an issue with the front tire jumping out of ruts or wheeling right out of a corner because I had trouble with the on/off engagement feel. However now I found myself rolling through corners with more speed and confidence knowing that I was hooking up better. The Hinson gives the sensation of added rear wheel traction and a more connected feel to the track. I didn’t notice any clutch slippage or jutter while abusing the clutch during motos and Keefer even mentioned that he could ride/slip the clutch (during his 30 minute motos) without the clutch fading.

The Rekluse Torque Drive clutch install is easier and at the same time harder to install than the Hinson. Why? Let us explain… It’s easier in a sense because you are using your stock outer clutch basket, which means there is no need for any grinders. It’s slightly more difficult because there are a lot more moving parts like the basket sleeves, which will test your patience, while installing the fibers and steels. Having said that the other important part to pay attention to is the Rekluse Torque Drive starts and ends with a steel plate, not a fiber. Another difference from most clutch kits is that Rekluse provides (in the kit) three different clutch springs to help tailor the clutch feel/delivery to the rider. Silver giving you the easiest clutch pull, gold, and then red being most aggressive with the hardest clutch pull/bottom end hit/delivery. You can run three silver and three gold or three gold and three red to really help get the clutch feel/power delivery that you prefer. I decided to go with three silver and three gold springs in hopes to help clutch pull feeling at the lever. Just note that the stiffer the clutch spring the harder it is on your transmission under heavy load (acceleration).


As I rode to an undisclosed location (Keefer’s Test Track) with the Rekluse Torque Drive I immediately noticed a much better lever feel than stock and a slightly lighter pull than the Hinson. As I made my way around Keefer’s new test track or I should say turn track, I noticed that the Rekluse has a wider window of engagement than the stock clutch, yet very close to what the Hinson had to offer as well. This makes it a lot easier to modulate the power of the Honda just like I mentioned above. You can really slip the clutch and feed the power better to the rear wheel. This gave me a new found confidence as I was able to cover the clutch and keep the Hondas front tire from lifting out of corners (similar to the Hinson). If anyone knows Kris, you know that you’re always on the clock when you’re riding, which meant thirty minute moto’s to test the Rekluse’s durability. As it neared the end of each moto (which we did over the course of several weeks) the feel at the lever stayed consistent and never seemed to fade on either Kris or I very much at all. Messing with the lever play while riding was minimal and Keefer even mentioned that he barely had to adjust the free play during his sand motos. As with the Hinson, the Rekluse clutch definitely got the power to the ground and gave both of us a little more snap (bottom end response) out of corners. The Rekluse got the power to the rear wheel better than the stock unit and nearly as good as the Hinson. The only difference we both felt was that the Rekluse had a little more bite (or pop/excitement) out of corners than the Hinson. The Hinson had slightly less bottom end hit than the Rekluse, but had slightly better rear wheel traction. The Rekluse made the Honda feel more exciting and playful out of corners without sacrificing traction. Both clutch kits provided much better power delivery/traction than the stock system and have lasted much longer as well. Another positive attribute of the Rekluse Torque Drive is that it actually improved the recovery time of the engine when I found myself in the wrong gear (mostly third gear in tight corners). With just a flick of the clutch the Honda’s engine was right back in the RPM it was supposed to be in.


This was a very educational test for me as I have never tested or used an aftermarket clutch in any of my bikes. Keefer thought it would be a great way for both of us to feel the differences between two companies that know a thing or two about clutches. The Hinson and/or Rekluse Torque Drive clutch systems are just what the Honda needs. They both improved performance as well as reliability, which to me is the most important piece to this test. I am a blue collar type of guy that works to put food on the table for my family, not pay for unwanted parts/bling for my dirt bike.

Hinson’s nine plate clutch kit retails for $1,184.99 and is not exactly what you call inexpensive, but to us, this Hinson Nine Plate set up could pay for itself if you’re hard on clutches like Keefer is. The Rekluse Core Manual Torq Drive retails for $899.00, but since you re-use your stock outer clutch basket, we can see why this costs less (than the Hinson). If I was to go purchase a clutch for my personal Honda, which this one kind of became, I would choose either one of these because they both fixed my two major gripes with the stock 2019 CRF450R clutch. Either one is a great choice, it’s just a matter of how much money is in the ol’ bank account. -Matt Sirevaag

If you have any questions or concerns about either of these products feel free to email and he can hopefully guide you into the right purchasing direction.

Pro Tech Wrap Around Fork Guards

Not only motocross riders, but ALL motorcycle riders alike can agree on one thing; there is almost nothing worse than going to load up your bike to go ride and noticing a leaky or blown fork seal. CRAP! There are two main ways fork seals end up leaking; one is from letting mud dry on your fork tubes, then going riding and forcing the dried mud into the seal, which tears the seal. The other is from small rock nicks on the fork tube, which can create sharp high spots that tear the fork seals as well. 

Pro Tech is a company out of the United Kingdom that reached out to us to test some of their fork guards that are meant to help keep your fork tubes a little more out of harm’s way. Pro Tech noticed that modern day fork guards on production bikes are very bare and exposed on the back side, that leaves the fork tubes susceptible to being chipped by rocks/mud. Along the lines of what KTM used to do with their full wrap around production fork guards, Pro Tech designed their guards to wrap slightly further around the back of the fork leg, which made for an easier installation process than the old KTM guards. I mean it’s fork guards people, let’s not make it rocket science to install right? The theory is that with less area for rocks to get past the guard there is less of a chance at damaging the fork seals. 


We used these guards first on our 2019 KTM 450XC-F test unit seen zero nicks/chips on the forks when we took them off. The next bike we put them on was our KTM 300 XCW TPI and after riding in plenty of mud, following other riders at speed on high speed gravel trails, we have yet to have a fork seal failure. The guards come with all the necessary mounting holes and/or clamps to hold the front brake cable or trip meter wire to the guards as well as coming in a few different color options. The fit of the guards are spot on, but I don’t think they look quite as good or have the quality of production fork guards. However, to me, if they truly make the seals last longer it’s worth the slightly less looking quality. Most production fork guards plastic structure feels sturdier to the hands compared to the Pro Tech guards, but the PT guards didn't break or crack under the normal bush whacking we do out here in California. One other area where the Pro Tech guards are lacking is in the diversity of brands. So far they only offer guards for KTM, Husqvarna, Sherco, and Honda, but after talking with Pro Tech they told us that the next step is to make guards for more models as long as the demand is there. Although we don’t get that much mud on the west coast, I have put a lot of hours on these guards and like previously stated, I haven’t seen an issue yet. For around $50.00 they are a relatively inexpensive way to protect your forks a little more. If you want some extra insurance on those long off-road or muddy motos maybe this could be an option for you riders out there. You can check out Pro Tech at to see if they have guards for your machine. If you have any questions about the Pro Tech fork guards feel free to reach out to me at


Keefer’s Thoughts: I was told that KTM went away from the wrap around fork guard for production because of mud collecting near the tops of the fork guards at times. When we tested those models (that I had the wrap around fork guards back then) at home we didn't have an issue, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen. I know for drier conditions the wrap around fork guard is a great way to protect more of the lower fork tube and this is a good thing. Just be aware of mud collection near the fork guard when you're riding long, deep, mud ruts. 

We are fully committed to keeping up with our complete transparency of tests, so we will always make sure that the consumer is completely communicated to about any product. -KK 

Raptor Titanium Footpegs 


There are many aftermarket parts that are easy to improve upon with stock motorcycles, but there are also some that are pretty damn good in production form. Some people don’t realize how much goes into making a stock footpeg work so well, but listening to Keefer talk about how much he has tested production footpegs got me thinking. Footpegs basically don’t get the recognition they deserve because frankly, if you aren't talking/complaining about them, that means they are doing their job. You never hear a rider say “hey bro, my footpegs are working great out there”. No instead, no news is good news, when it comes to footpegs. However, there are many aspects to look at such as pitch, sharpness, folding ability, etc. About a year ago I bought myself a personal bike, a 2006 YZ125, which has been a blast, but after many off-road rides, the pegs were looking a little tired, dull, and tattered. Kris saw my beat up pegs and said I should try a set of the Raptor pegs he had in the shop and since most all current Yamaha pegs are the same, they bolted right up to my 2006 personal steed.


The look of the Raptor pegs are quite aggressive with large, pointy, titanium edges that appear hungry to eat any boot sole they come in contact with. The fit and finish of the Raptor pegs are top notch and being a metal fabricator myself, I can truly appreciate the craftsmanship of quality material/good looking welds. On my initial ride with the new pegs I noticed the slightly larger than stock platform which I like because it adds some comfort when standing. I also noticed that the pegs sit flat and not upward like smoother aftermarket pegs we have tried in the past. Although they do look aggressive they don’t seem to chew up boot soles any quicker than stock foot pegs.  My foot placement/grip is slightly better than stock when it comes to forward and back movement, but when it comes to side to side movement, I think the raptor pegs are somewhat lacking in grip. The reason I say this is because if you look at most stock foot pegs, the three or four outside teeth are taller than all the others, which helps keep your foot from sliding off the side of the pegs. The Raptor pegs are flat all the way across, there aren’t any built up teeth near the end of the peg, which led to my feet slipping off the sides of the pegs a couple times when the riding got wet/slippery. One other negative thing I noticed with the Raptor pegs was that the brake side peg, when folded up, started putting a small crease in my brake pedal where the pivot bolt is. This didn’t cause a problem, but I could possibly see over time, with a big enough hit, this possibly being an issue. 


After many HARD off-road miles on the Raptor pegs they show no sign of wear and because of the strong titanium material, they take abuse without ever bending, denting, or getting dull. Like I said in the beginning of the story, there are some parts that are hard to improve upon and I think Raptor did a good job of improving the stock foot peg in some areas, but also came up slightly short in others. Footpegs are very much a rider preference part and for me I’ll take the couple shortcomings in order to have an overall stronger foot peg that will stay sharper for a longer period of time. 

If you have any questions about the Raptor pegs feel free to reach out to me at -Michael Allen


Yoshimura RS-9T Full Titanium Sytem For 2019 Honda CRF250R

It’s no secret that the Honda CRF250R is still lacking some bottom to mid range power when compared to the other competitors in the 250 class in 2019. Seeing as how I’ve been logging some hours on this machine as of late, I decided to test the full Yoshimura RS-9T titanium system to see if we can get some added low end power. Installing the new full system took me less than 20 minutes and the instructions were very detailed. All of the parts that came inside the box fit perfectly and no curse words were thrown out in the garage while installing the Yoshimura exhaust.

Now to the part that everyone wants to know. Does the Yoshimura help the 2019 CRF250R? The simple answer is yes, but who likes simple answers? Not me! With the stock system, the Honda pulls nicely from mid top end, but when exiting corners and trying to grunt up obstacles, the engine needed some assistance. The best way I can explain the stock feeling 2019 CRF250R is that it needs help on “recovery" when the rider makes a mistake. “Recovery” basically means how long it takes the engine to recover by getting in the meat of the power again. When you're tired or lazy and miss a shift, this is where the Honda CRF250R gets smoked by the Yamaha YZ250F. I had to ride a gear lower at times in corners (with the stock CRF250R compared to other 2019 250F machines) and if I didn’t, it took a bit of clutch feathering and more coaxing to get the bike pulling hard again. If the track is flowy and fast the stock Honda works great, but when the track is tighter, this engine suffers.


As soon as I fired the bike up with the new exhaust it was clearly a bit louder, not obnoxious, but a nice throaty sound that was deeper. I tested the stock system back to back with the Yoshimura system on consecutive days, so it was interesting to see the places (at each track) where the bike really felt different. 


The most noticeable place the bike felt better was out of tight inside ruts that exited up jump faces. With the stock system I had to slightly slip the clutch all the way up the lip (to be able to clear the jump). When I bolted on the Yoshimura system I could leave it in second gear and just use the meat of the newfound bottom end power to pull me up and over those types of jumps. When I had to be in second gear and scream the bike (with the stock system), I could now be in third gear and use the smoother/stronger part of the power to exit the turn with the Yoshimura muffler system. RPM response was improved as well and this made the Honda feel even lighter when popping out of corners. Connectivity to the rear wheel was improved and even with that extra RPM response I gained with the Yosh system, I received more rear wheel traction. From mid to top end I only noticed a sightly better pulling power down each straight with slightly more over-rev. This part of the muffler wasn't mind blowing, but took me a couple tracks to figure out that there was a little extra “meat” through the mid range (compared to stock). Overall the little Honda just has a little more RPM response, better pulling power through second and third gears, and a small gain when revving the bike out in each gear.   


 This doesn't mean that your new Honda CRF250R (with the Yoshimura exhaust) is going to be a YZ250F killer, but it closes the gap a little. If you have a 2019 Honda CRF250R and feel like you’d like a bit more bottom-mid range power I’d definitely look into the RS-9T system. There are three types of Yoshimura mufflers that you can choose from; a slip on muffler system ($763.15), the full stainless system ($947.36), and the full titanium system ($1463.15). Admittedly none of these are super inexpensive options, but it’s one of the few things in today’s four-stroke world that provides a true bolt on benefit. Besides, if you were looking to save a few bucks, I don't think you would be rocking a new 2019 Honda CRF250R right now anyway.